Possible erosion of Ynyslas beach-face due to extreme storms

 

Time estimated: 6 to 12 months

Participant: Nguyen Quang Chien, Dept. Physics and another team member

In Programme: Joy-Welch Charitable Fund

 

Motivation

Various stretches of the Welsh coastal dunes have been exposed to vulnerability[1], yet estimation of risks are mostly qualitative with more emphasis on description[2] rather than prediction. Dynamic modelling of how such dune faces would reshape during extreme events such as storms accompanied by high tides would aid in risk evaluation. Dune geomorphology is a crucial physical boundary for the growth of plants within the dune ecosystem. As a proof of concept, the erosion of the Ynylas dune (Ceredigion, GB) would be simulated for local extreme events such as the January 2014 storm.

 

Method

A cascading analysis will be used. Firstly, oceanographic conditions associated with the storm event should be determined. This task is done through hydrodynamic modelling with commonly used open-source software such as Delft3D, Swan and XBeach. This condition should ideally be compared to field measurement data, but we referred to relevant published works due to the lack of equipment and personnel[3].

 

Secondly, the output of such simulation model is analysed to highlight major driving forces to the change of this beach: waves, storm surge and wind. In addition, the background evolution of beach morphology due to the tidal process is considered[4]. 

 

Next, the detailed flow field and erosion hot spots on a specific coastal transect will be identified. The simulation of turbulence and potentially sediment stirring processes can be performed with the aid of the Flow3D software. Computation in a multi-core system will be conducted if possible with support from Supercomputing Wales at Aberystwyth.

Intended Results

The research work will provide the following outputs:

·         Time-varying fields of tide, wave and wind over the Ynyslas coastal region during the storm events;

·         Series of map representing the change of dune and beach face over time;

·         Turbulent flow field, shear stresses and potential sand grain movement in selected coastal transects (‘erosion hot-spots’);

·         Collection of input and parameters for hydrodynamics solvers; offering reproducible research and readily applied to other cases.

These findings will be released to the public in 2022, including an open access paper and an online software repository.

 

 



[1]                      Williams and Davies (2001). Coastal dunes of Wales; vulnerability and protection. Journal of Coastal Conservation 7: 145-154

[2]                      Caldwell and Yule (1981). Beach morphology changes at Ynyslas spit, Dyfed, Wales. Cambria 8: 51-69

[3]                      Thompson, Karunarathna and Reeve (2017). Modelling extreme wave overtopping at Aberystwyth promenade. Water 9: 663

[4]                      Robins and Davies (2010). Morphological controls in sandy estuaries: the influence of tidal flats and bathymetry on sediment transport. Ocean Dynamics 60: 503-517